If you believe the hype, dupes are a great way to get premium skincare products at a sliver of the original price. But are they worth the risk?
You’ve heard about them on social media, or in the whispers of your beauty-obsessed friends: The promises of the dupe, or duplicate.
For most of the English language, a duplicate has referred to an exact copy of something. But in the context of the fashion and beauty markets today, the term “dupe” relates not to exact copies of particular products, but inferior replicas made to resemble the original product. A dupe can copy the design of a handbag, or the texture of a moisturizer, while actually being a distinct product.
Dupes are not a new concept, and have existed for about as long as contemporary commerce. It was the rivalry between the companies Gillette and Schick—and the shaving technology they created and expanded on between each other —that helped birth the safety razor industry. A century later, hyperconsumerism has thrown the industry into overdrive. Not only have beauty products of all kinds flourished, but so have copies of those beauty products, vying for a piece of the pie.
Without some form of duping, would we have such a big beauty market today? It’s not uncommon for one brand to adopt the technology of another, or take inspiration from existing products when trying to formulate their own. The crucial difference is intent. Some dupes are designed to closely mirror other products—the hope being that a potential customer will confuse them, or think they’re paying a lot less for a premium product.
But there’s reason for caution. This guide will help you understand how to tell dupes apart from the real thing, and what you’re buying into when you shop for dupes.
What are Tatcha dupes?
Consider a different kind of dupe: The handbag. A premium handbag might be assembled by hand according to an intricate, proprietary design, using high-quality materials. A dupe of that handbag might look awfully similar to the real thing, but it isn’t guaranteed to be made to the same exactingly high standards that make the handbag premium quality. (Cheap materials, machine assembly, and obvious imperfections are hallmarks of handbag dupes.)
Tatcha dupes are quite similar. Where the craftsmanship of a handbag is evident in the way it looks and feels, so, too, is a premium Tatcha product created. But whereas accessories are often duped to replicate the look of the product, most beauty products look the same. The question is: What are you buying when you buy a Tatcha dupe?
“One of the most important questions to ask yourself before getting a Tatcha dupe is: ‘What aspect of the high-cost product am I attempting to replicate?’” asked the South China Morning Post last year. Some oft-duped Tatcha products have a high price point because of proprietary technology or rare ingredients that are, in turn, expensive to source or manufacture. Dupes are cheaper by design, which is how they’re able to be sold at low, low prices.
Essentially, a Tatcha dupe is a replica of an existing Tatcha product made with cheaper materials and ingredients. A handbag dupe may look nice at first, but start coming apart after the first wear. This lower standard of craftsmanship is less immediately visible with beauty products. That can be a dangerous thing.
What are the pros of Tatcha dupes?
There is one unimpeachably irresistible trait of Tatcha dupes: Their price. Who among us wouldn’t want to shop premium skincare at a drugstore price? It just seems like an economical decision.
Unfortunately, the cost is more than just the one on the tag. As a dermatologist once explained to Byrdie, “The difference between an affordable moisturizer versus an expensive moisturizer can be a few things: marketing, packaging, and possibly proprietary ingredients.” Many moisturizers, for one example, have a carefully calculated price to reflect the cost it took to make, as well as a number of other factors. Whether expensive is always higher quality is a question to be applied on a case-by-case basis, but by and large, the price is high for a reason.
There are ways for price-conscious consumers to get premium skincare benefits affordably. One simple trick is shopping for travel sizes, which package products into substantial samples. Alternatively, larger, economy sizes can give you more bang for your buck. And shopping for your beauty from a large retailer can increase your chances of getting rewards and discounts.
What are the cons of Tatcha dupes?
The cons of dupes far outnumber the pros. What’s at stake is your skin.
Many skincare companies invest in testing their products and formulating for optimal skin health. (To bring a product to market is costly, but to bring one to market with proven benefits is even more challenging.) They might perform clinical trials, or consumer perception studies, or both. This is to ensure a high level of integrity in their skincare formulas—a level not typically associated with inexpensive dupes.
When using Tatcha dupes, it’s possible to notice differences in texture, unpleasant odor, or residue after application. Without the same consideration for overall skin health, Tatcha dupes can produce adverse reactions and/or less dramatic results. People with some skin types, like those who have sensitive or reactive skin, should be especially cautious around dupes.
There’s also the fact that dupes crowd the market without adding innovation, or by playing fair. Allure investigated the wide world of fragrance dupes, and made the point that perfumers, who are craftspeople just like carpenters and ceramists, are the ones who hurt the most. In general, dupes can do harm not just to individual consumers, but the industry as a whole.
Why can’t Tatcha products be duped?
Since the brand’s launch in 2009, Tatcha has become a beloved skincare brand with fans all over the world. This has led to growth into other countries and new categories. It has also fostered dupes of Tatcha products. Rest assured: Tatcha products are unable to be duped.
One big reason why is the Tatcha Institute, otherwise known as our in-house research and development team. All formulas are made from scratch—a stark contrast to the wider skincare industry, where brands often work with multiple manufacturers to create their products. Using manufacturers makes minting products easier, at the expense of less oversight and consistency among formulas. There’s also Hadasei-3, our proprietary complex which amplifies the performance of powerhouse ingredients within our formulas. This cannot be found in non Tatcha products—even purported “Tatcha dupes.”
Our approach is rooted in classical Japanese skincare, which is about respecting the skin barrier first and foremost. We believe that potent formulas should never sacrifice skin barrier health for the sake of results, which makes one more reason to be wary of Tatcha dupes. Brands like Tatcha make it easy to see the ingredients and discover the processes behind your favorite formulas. After all: Nothing beats the real thing.
